Tabi is the term for traditional split-toe Japanese socks, which date back at least as far as the fifteenth century and were originally worn with geta or zori thonged sandals. Inspired by this design, Margiela introduced his signature shoe in 1988 in his first runway show. He instructed models to dip their white boots in red paint, so that their footprints decorated the white canvas–lined runway as they walked. Margiela incorporated the footprint-patterned cloth into garments of future collections. Margiela’s Tabis reflect his broader, influential approach to design, in which he translates preexisting forms, materials, or techniques into idiosyncratic garments that eventually become leitmotifs within his practice.
Pirouette: Turning Points in Design, January 26, 2025–November 15, 2025
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