About the Publication

  • Edward Steichen. Cover of Vogue. July 1, 1932. Courtesy Condé Nast. © 2014 The Estate of Edward Steichen/Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York

    In the first half of the twentieth century, the American magazine Vogue distinguished itself not only for its reporting on the world of haute couture but also by serving as a beacon of culture and a pioneer in the publication of modern photography. Founded in 1892 as a small weekly society journal, the magazine was acquired in 1909 by the publishing entrepreneur Condé Nast, who built it up as the centerpiece of his magazine empire. Believing that a fashion magazine should address an informed, forward-thinking, affluent audience, Nast transformed Vogue; he hired artists and photographers of great talent to illustrate the magazine and published articles about contemporary art, theater, literature, and photography.

    Nast engaged his audience with alluring portraits of celebrities and figures from the Social Register, creating an elite aura. The portraits were always photographs, with more focused compositions and stylized elegance than was usual in the profession. In 1914 Baron Adolf de Meyer became the first official staff photographer; in 1923 he was succeeded by Edward Steichen, chief photographer for both Vogue and Vanity Fair until 1937. Steichen’s Gertrude Lawrence (MoMA 1869.2001), published in Vanity Fair, is similar to his work for Vogue. Horst P. Horst joined the staff in 1932, the year Vogue began replacing the hand-drawn illustrations on its covers with photographs.

    Moving away from the bland pictures of statesmen and head shots of actresses so prevalent in other picture magazines, Vogue took greater risks, featuring photographs that were less conventional. The magazine published the most recent, novel, and formally satisfying work of the day, including Man Ray’s experimental Rayographs the same year they were created (1922), behind-the-scenes candid shots by Erich Salomon (similar to MoMA 1851.2001), and color photographs by Anton Bruehl. Throughout the 1920s, ’30s, and ’40s, Vogue continued to showcase the most creative photographers of the era, featuring work by Berenice Abbott, Manuel Álvarez Bravo, George Hoyningen-Huene, Lotte Jacobi, Lee Miller, Tina Modotti, Paul Outerbridge, Charles Sheeler, Alfred Stieglitz, Paul Strand, Carl Van Vechten, and many others.

    —Audrey Sands

  • Language(s) English
  • Dates Surveyed 1892–1949

Additional Photos

Edward Steichen. Gertrude Lawrence. 1928. Gelatin silver print, 1928–35. 9 7/16 × 7 9/16" (24 × 19.2 cm). The Museum of Modern Art, New York. Thomas Walther Collection. Edward Steichen Estate and gift of Mrs. Flora S. Straus, by Exchange (MoMA 1869.2001). © 2014 The Estate of Edward Steichen/Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York

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1919–28
Publishes photographs in Vogue, Harper's Bazaar, and Vanity Fair
Contributor: Francis Bruguière
New York
1923–37
Chief photographer at Condé Nast; makes fashion and celebrity photographs for Vogue and Vanity Fair
At location: Edward Steichen
New York
1925
Signs a contract with French Vogue as an illustrator
At location: George Hoyningen-Huene
Paris
1926
Makes his first fashion photographs for Vogue
At location: George Hoyningen-Huene
Paris
1926–29
Works as staff photographer for Condé Nast; publishes photographs in Vogue and Vanity Fair
Contributor: Charles Sheeler
New York
Mid-1926–66
Works for Condè Nast; publishes photographs in Vogue, Vanity Fair, and House and Garden
At location: Anton Bruehl
New York
1927
Lee Miller models for Vogue photographers Georges Lepape, Edward Steichen, Arnold Genthe, and Nickolas Muray
At location: Edward Steichen, Lee Miller
New York
1927
Becomes the head of the color photography department at Condé Nast
At location: Anton Bruehl
New York
Fall 1928
Becomes art director of German Vogue and design director of the international advertising agency Dorland Studio
At location: Herbert Bayer
Berlin
Late 1929
Lee Miller works at French Vogue as an assistant to and model for George Hoyningen-Huene
At location: George Hoyningen-Huene, Lee Miller
Paris
1930–59
Publishes in French, British, and American Vogue; London Bulletin; and Lilliput
Affiliated: Lee Miller
New York Paris London
1932–33
Collaborates with Fernand Bourges at Condé Nast to produce 195 color photographs using the color carbo technique
They dominate the field of color photography until Kodak introduces Kodachrome sheet film, making color photography much easier.
At location: Anton Bruehl
New York
1935
Leaves Condé Nast due to a contract dispute
Contributor: George Hoyningen-Huene
New York
1937–46
Works as a freelance photographer for American Magazine, Collier's, Coronet, Harper's Bazaar, Look, Town and Country, and Vogue
Contributor: André Kertész
New York Chicago Des Moines
1946–48
Works for Vogue
At location: George Platt Lynes
Los Angeles
1948–55
Contributes to Vogue, Town and Country, and Harper's Bazaar
Affiliated: George Platt Lynes
New York

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