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Inoue Pleats Co., Ltd. Wrinkle P. 1997.
Polyester, 59" (149.9 cm) wide. Mfr.: Inoue Pleats Co., Ltd., Tokyo.
Machine pleated and manually compressed
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Any material that has the ability to be molded or shaped in a particular way can be sculpted-stone is chiseled; metal is cast; clay is thrown or modeled. When cloth surfaces are sculpted, highly articulated individual landscapes are formed by manipulating and experimenting with the innate behavior of specific yarns. Heat plays an instrumental role, and many sculpted fabrics are, in fact, baked.
Wrinkle P, developed by Inoue Company, is produced by randomly stuffing polyester fabric into a small container and heating it under high temperature in order to permanently set the pleats. Urase Company's Harmony uses heat to transfer a dark blue color onto an already wrinkled yellow fabric. As a static piece of cloth, it simply looks wrinkled; however, when the wrinkles are pulled apart, as if to straighten out the cloth, the yellow interior color is revealed.
Osamu Mita and Yoshihiro Kimura rely on the juxtaposition of different materials to create a sculpted surface. In Mita's Washi & Wool, these fibers are woven together and then placed in a washer that, as it cleans, shrinks the wool at a different percentage from the paper, resulting in a husky textured surface. Kimura affixes polyester chiffon to a base of stretched knitted fabric in Pedocal. An acrylic binder screenprinted in a pattern permeates the fabrics, causing them to join. Minute rayon fibers are affixed to this binder and with an electric charge (flocking) are made to stand vertically. The knitted fabric that was stretched during this whole process is loosened again, leaving the double-layered cloth puckered and covered with crevices.
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Yoshihiro Kimura. Pedocal. 1996. Nylon, polyurethane, polyester, and rayon, 44" (111.8 cm) wide. Mfr.: Kimura Senko Co., Ltd., Shiga. Flock printed
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Osamu Mita. Washi & Wool. 1997. Wool and washi paper, 25" (63.5 cm). Mfr.: Mitasho Co., Ltd., Gumma. Jacquard double weave: plain weave (washi paper), mesh weave (wool), felted
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